Making The Most of Your Eye Shape

Below are some guidelines for you on how to correctly apply make up for your eye shape. Colours should always include a highlighter and shader. Remember professional make up is all about shading, highlighting and toning. It's a simple rule – if you want something to stand out then remember light. If you want something to be minimized, remember dark. This applies not only for your eyes but all your features. The other rule is of course to BLEND, BLEND AND BLEND!

Deep Set  

Stand them out by applying the highlighter over the lid and just above the hollow. Then blend a mid colour into the natural crease (socket line), followed by highlighting under the brow. A fine line of eyeliner should be drawn under the upper lashes.

Prominent

The opposite of deep set. Push the lid back by blending a dark colour onto the lid and just under the bottom corner of the eye. Use a highlighter under the brow bone. Draw eyeliner on the top lashes and blend into the eyeshadow.

Small

 Apply a light colour to the inner corner of your eyes and three quarters of the way across your lid. To “stretch” the eye out, apply dark shadow to the corner of your eyes and wing it out. Highlight under the brow bone and the corner of your eyes. Eyeliner should be placed only on the outer corner of the top and bottom lids – then smudge so you don't have a harsh line.

Round 

To give the eye width, blend a light colour onto the upper lid. Fill in with a deeper colour into the socket area and extend at the corners to the brow line. Line both the top and bottom lids, and again smudge to avoid a harsh line.

Droopy 

You need to create lift at the outer corners. Blend a mid colour over the lid, winging it upwards towards the brow. With a deep colour draw in a false socket line, raising at the outer edge, then blend a highlighter at the outer corner of the eye. Eyeliner should be smudged from the center of the upper lashes outwards.

Wide set

Apply a darker colour at the inner corner of your eyes and lighter shading towards the outer edge. Emphasise the socket line with a darker colour nearest to the nose then fading as you reach the outer corner of your eye. Mascara should be put on thicker towards the inner corner lashes.

Close set 

Opposite of wide set and similar to small eyes. Blend a darker shadow on the outer corner of your eyes, and highlight the inner corner, lid and just below the brow bone. Eyeliner should be placed on the outer edge of upper and lower lids.

Apply a light colour to the inner corner of your eyes and three quarters of the way across your lid. To “stretch” the eye out, apply dark shadow to the corner of your eyes and wing it out. Highlight under the brow bone and the corner of your eyes. Eyeliner should be placed only on the outer corner of the top and bottom lids – then smudge so you don't have a harsh line.