February 5, 2009

Foundation, Back to Basics.

Filed under: Cosmetics Advice — Tags: , , — sue @ 8:47 pm

Foundation does exactly what it says on the tin.  It is the base and foundation of your whole make up routine. If your foundation is shaky then you are in trouble!

Foundation comes in a number of different types and varieties and it is important to get the right one for you.

Tinted moisturiser is lightly tinted with minimum coverage. Perfect for young skins and for the times when you want to look natural but need a little help.

Liquid foundation is the most popular and is suitable for everyone.  This gives medium coverage, not too light and not too heavy. Choose an oil-free formulation for oily or combination skin and a moisturising or anti-ageing formulation for dry or mature skin.

Mousse foundation has a very creamy and hydrating finish with a medium coverage. Gives a light and airy, natural look which lasts for a long time.

Stick foundations give a heavier coverage with moisturising properties and act as a concealer too. Suitable for dry, mature skin or skin with lots of blemishes. Good for blotchy or uneven skin tone.

Light diffusing foundations contain small particles that difuse the reflected light. This softens lines and wrinkles and makes blemishes less visible. The particles also give light and a radiance to the skin.

Choose a colour that is as close to your own skin tone as possible. If you can, try a tester on your face, if this is not possible try it on the inside of your wrist, never on your hand. Allow a few minutes for the colour to develop and reveal itself fully and try and look at it in natural light as well as artificial light.

Many foundations contain a sunscreen which helps protect your skin from the damaging effects of the sun. So it is important to look out for the SPF number on a product. The higher the number the greater the protection. 

When you use your foundation apply a thin layer of moisturiser to your skin and allow it to settle and absorb for at least 20 minutes. 

With clean hands apply concealer as needed and then dab spots of foundation over your face. Gently blend in well. Pay particular attention to your jaw line and hair line. There is nothing more obvious than a tide line where the make up finishes. If you have chosen a shade close to your skin tone then all that is needed is to blend and taper off the foundation into your neck.

Allow to set for a few minutes before applying powder.

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February 2, 2009

All You Have Ever wanted to Know About Concealer!

Filed under: Cosmetics Advice — Tags: , — sue @ 9:35 pm

Blemishes, dark circles, uneven skin tone and scars. We all have them. Even models and movie stars have them. They are either airbrushed out or camouflaged by the skillful use of cosmetic concealers. This last solution is available to all of us and, with a little practice, can give amazingly successful results.
   
A concealer is used to cover up blemishes and produce an even skin tone. Losing the dark circles under your eyes can make a dramatic, instantly youthful  difference to your appearance. Dark patches around the nose and chin can disappear completely so it is well worth taking the trouble to perfect your concealer technique. 

Concealers are meant to conceal and blend in completely with your natural skin tone and foundation. The best way to ensure that they do just that is to choose a colour that’s a half-shade lighter than your skin’s natural tone.

Chose the shade of your concealer carefully: For pale skin, use a light beige with yellow undertones. For olive skin, use a medium beige with pink undertones. And for darker skin, use a medium to medium-dark shade with peach undertones. Multi-tone concealers can give exceptional results but do practice before going out as they can be tricky to get right. 

 Apply concealer first, before foundation, and give it a few minutes to set before applying your foundation.  Apply a very light, non greasy, moisturising eye cream to about one inch below the eye.  Then lightly place a small bit of concealer directly over the area. You can use a small, square, flat concealer brush or you can dot it on with your finger. Gently pat the concealer onto your skin rather than rubbing it in.

Blend in thoroughly but with as soft a touch as possible.

Always start with less than you think you need. You can add more if needed, but the idea is to use as little as possible. Don’t be tempted to apply a layer so thickly that it becomes noticeable, This will only draw attention to the problem area. Less is definitely more  in this instance.

Using the correct shade for you skin will allow you to get better results with less product. When you are using a concealer tester always try it out on your face. The skin tone of your hand is completely different from that of your face.

Concealer can even help cover up acne.  Use a medicated concealer, one with Tea tree Oil is ideal, and it will even help heal the spot while it conceals it!  A yellow or green shade can help to counter the redness of acne.  

Be very careful when using concealer on an area that will be covered by eyeshadow, blusher or lipstick as the colours can be altered by concealer, test this out on your hand before using a new product.     

Concealers are available in  stick form, like a lipstick. These are easy to apply, give a good cover and are convenient to carry about. Make sure they are very soft and avoid dragging the delicate skin around the eyes as you apply and blend.

Also available are liquid concealers, often with an applicator wand in the lid, or in a small tube. These are very easy to apply and blend. You can dab it on without dragging. 

Compact concealers are usually applied with the finger tip. These also give a good coverage but make sure your hands are scrupulously clean, especially if you suffer from spots.

After applying concealer apply foundation and powder as usual. You can touch up your concealer over your foundation if necessary,  but be very careful to blend it in very carefully and to use the minimum amount possible.   

If you have scarring to your face or body there are special ranges of concealing make up that are only available on the NHS.  If you ask your GP he can refer you to a specialist who will select suitable products and give you instructions on how to use them. These products are really brilliant, the results are incredible and can be life-changing. So if you think you might benefit please go and speak to your GP.

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